Let me tell you about the topper I killed. Gorgeous piece. Human hair. Not cheap. I got lazy with the routine for a few weeks, just shoved it in a bag instead of on the stand, skipped the deep conditioning, thought it’d be fine. Reader. It was not fine. Matted beyond saving. Big fat expensive lesson learned.
So here’s everything I actually do now to keep my pieces in good shape. Not a hairdresser, not an expert, just someone who has made enough mistakes to know what works.
Daily Wear: The Non-Negotiables
Heat protectant. Every single time. I don’t care if you’re using the lowest heat setting on your straighteners. Use it. Human hair pieces cannot repair themselves the way your bio hair can. The damage is permanent. There’s no growing it out. Two seconds with a heat protectant spray before you reach for any hot tools, every time, no exceptions.
Detangle from ends to roots, not the other way round. Wide tooth comb or a soft bristle brush. Start at the ends and slowly work your way up. Dragging a brush from root to tip yanks the hair and stresses the base and causes shedding. None of those things are good.
Hands off during the day. I know. I’m guilty of this too. But constantly running your fingers through a topper is a one-way ticket to frizz and tangles by lunchtime. Style it in the morning and genuinely try to leave it alone.
Store it properly at night. Wig stand if you have one, silk or satin bag if you don’t. Do not, I beg you, just chuck it on the bathroom counter or stuffed in a drawer. That’s how you end up like me, staring at a matted mess wondering where it all went wrong.
Washing: Much Less Often Than You Think
This surprises a lot of people. Human hair pieces don’t get scalp oils because, well, they’re not attached to your scalp. Which means over-washing just strips out whatever moisture they do have and dries them out faster. I wash mine every 8 to 15 wears depending on how much product I’ve used. Sometimes longer. They don’t need it as often as you think.
Sulphate-free shampoo only. Sulphates are too stripping. Think of it like washing colour-treated hair, same principle.
Cool or lukewarm water. Hot water opens the hair cuticle aggressively and causes frizz and dryness over time. Keep it cool.
Wash in one direction, root to tip. Gentle downward strokes only. No circular scrubbing, that causes tangling.
Condition mid-length to ends every single wash. But keep it away from the top of the base and the knots. This is really important. Getting conditioner into the knots that hold the hair can loosen them over time and you’ll end up with way more shedding than you should. Mid-lengths and ends only, rinse thoroughly.
Squeeze, don’t wring. Wringing causes tangling and stresses the base. Squeeze gently to get the excess water out, then press between a microfibre towel.
Air dry on a stand before you touch it with heat. Wet hair plus hot tools is the fastest way to cause damage. Just let it dry naturally first.
Deep Conditioning: Please Don’t Skip This
If there’s one thing on this list that makes the biggest difference to how your pieces look and feel and last, it’s this. Deep conditioning restores moisture, softness and manageability in a way that regular conditioner just can’t. I do it roughly every 3 to 4 washes, or whenever my piece starts feeling dry or rough or just a bit sad. That texture is the piece telling you it’s thirsty.
Same rule applies as regular conditioning though: keep the mask away from the base and knots at the top. Mid-lengths to ends only. Leave it on for 20 to 30 minutes under a shower cap, then rinse really thoroughly.
I’ve done a whole video and post on my exact method if you want to see it in action: How I Deep Condition My Hair Toppers and Wigs.
Products I genuinely use and love for this:
Bumble and Bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Mask – one of my absolute favourites on my pieces. Leaves the hair incredibly soft without weighing it down.
Olaplex No.3 – if your piece is feeling dry and crackly and straw-like (very technical term), this is what you reach for. It genuinely transforms the texture. I’ve written about it more in my Olaplex review.
Briogeo Don’t Despair Repair Hair Mask – another really solid option, especially for pieces that need a bit more intensive moisture. Works beautifully mixed with a few drops of the Briogeo hair oil too.
Storing Between Wears
A wig stand is ideal. It maintains the shape of the piece, lets it breathe, and means you’re not scrambling to detangle it before every wear. If you travel a lot, get a collapsible one for your bag. Worth it.
No stand? A silk or satin bag works as a backup. The smooth fabric reduces friction and stops frizz. Avoid cotton bags, they rough up the cuticle.
Keep your pieces away from direct sunlight and radiators. Both will fade the colour and dry out the hair over time. Cool and shaded is where you want them.
For a full breakdown of every product I use on my pieces and how I use each one specifically, my Hair Care for My Alt Hair post has all of that. And if you’re looking for bio hair recs too, the hair oil roundup and hair products I’ve been loving posts cover what I use on my thinning bio hair alongside my pieces.
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