I’ve worn hair toppers and wigs for over twenty years. I noticed my hair thinning at 19, got the official androgenic alopecia diagnosis in my late thirties, and somewhere in between I became the woman who knows way too much about clips and lace. Extensions, though? That’s a whole other world, and I’m not the person to ask.
Kenzie Moon is.
The short version
Kenzie says extensions do not have to make thinning hair worse, as long as the install matches what your own hair can carry. Her pick for fine hair is a beaded row with lightweight wefts. Go back to your stylist if the row is still sore after the first few days, or if you see redness, bumps, extra shedding at the beads or rows that slip. And if a doctor has not looked at your hair loss yet, or your scalp is irritated, she says hold off.
Meet the guest
Kenzie Moon
Hairstylist in Utah and founder of Wefts + Waves
- DiagnosedHereditary hair loss, 2018
- FoundedWefts + Waves, 2021
- Instagram@weftsandwaves
She now makes extensions for other stylists and teaches them how to fit them on fine hair. When she emailed me wanting to share her story, I sent her a list of questions. These are the ones people actually type into Google at midnight (are extensions bad for thinning hair, how do I know if they’re pulling) plus a few about her own story.
Here’s what she said. Her words, lightly tidied, and I’ve popped my own bits in between.
Table of Contents
Kenzie’s story: hearing “hereditary hair loss” in 2018
MeWhat was it like hearing “hereditary hair loss” in 2018?
KenzieHonestly, it was hard to hear. Hereditary meant it wasn’t something I could fix and move on from. Over time it became the reason I do what I do.
That bit about not being able to fix it and move on. Oof. There’s no finish line with this kind of hair loss, and the diagnosis is usually the moment you find that out.
MeWhen did you realise extensions could work for you?
KenzieI was nervous to get them because I worried they could make my already thin hair worse. But when I took the leap of faith and had them put in, I saw how much they helped my hair over time. That’s when extensions became the center of my work, and in 2021 I started making hair for my own salon clients.
So even the extensions lady was scared of extensions. Which makes me feel alot better about every hair decision I’ve ever overthought.
Are hair extensions bad for thinning hair?
This is the big one, and it’s why I wanted to talk to someone who lives with thinning hair herself.
MeA lot of women worry extensions will make thinning worse. What would you say to them?
KenzieWhen done right, they don’t have to. The damage comes from too much weight and tension on too little hair. A good install spreads the weight along a row, keeps it off the most fragile areas, and gets moved up on a regular schedule.
Weight and tension on too little hair. That’s the whole thing in one sentence, really. Match the extensions to what your own hair can carry and you’re starting off on the right foot.
The best extensions for fine or thinning hair (and what to avoid)
MeWhich types work best on fine or thinning hair, and which would you steer people away from?
KenzieI love a beaded row with lightweight wefts, sized to what your own hair can carry. K-tips can be another great option for fine hair but require expert installation and care. I’d steer away from heavy installs with more hair than you need.
If you’ve never seen a beaded row, it’s little beads clamped onto your own hair in a line, with the weft sitting along that line so the weight gets shared out.
Signs your extensions are putting too much strain on your hair
MeWhat are the warning signs that extensions are pulling too much?
KenzieSoreness or tenderness at the row after the first few days, redness or bumps, more shedding than usual at the beads, or rows that slip. Any of those means go back to your stylist.
Screenshot that one – seriously.
How to look after your own hair while wearing extensions
MeHow should someone look after their own hair while wearing them?
KenzieBrush gently from the ends up and brush the roots around the row. Never sleep on wet hair, braid it loosely at night, use heat protectant, and always make move up appointments a priority.
A move up (if you’re new to the lingo) is when your stylist shifts the row back up closer to the root as your hair grows. Skip them and the row drops lower, so the weight swings about and you’re back to too much pull on too little hair. (Topper clips can do the same thing if they grip the same spot every day, which I learned the hard way and wrote up in do hair toppers damage your hair.)
What to ask a stylist before getting extensions on thinning hair
MeWhat should a woman ask a stylist first, and what are the red flags?
KenzieAre you certified in this method? Can I see installs you’ve done on fine hair? How much hair are you planning to use, and why? Red flags: no real consultation, a row that feels tight from day one, or no aftercare plan.
I love “how much hair, and why?” because a good stylist will have an answer, and that answer tells you a lot.
Who extensions aren’t right for
MeWho are extensions NOT right for?
KenzieAnyone whose hair loss hasn’t been looked at by a doctor yet, anyone with an irritated scalp, and anyone without enough hair to anchor a row or hide the extensions. For them a topper or wig can be the kinder choice.
And hello, that’s where I come in. Twenty-odd years of toppers and wigs – and I’d say the same thing. There’s no prize for picking one route over another. Whatever works for your hair, on the day you’re living in, is the right answer.
“Every photo of a woman who loves her hair again reminds me why we started.”
Kenzie Moon
Where Kenzie is now
MeHow do you feel about your hair today?
KenzieSo much better. My hair is the healthiest it’s ever been! I understand my hair, I know what works for it, and I get to help other women with the same thing.
MeYou built Wefts + Waves while packing orders at night. What kept you going?
KenzieOur clients and our stylists. Every photo of a woman who loves her hair again reminds me why we started.
MeIf you could say one thing to yourself in 2018, what would it be?
KenzieYou’re going to be okay, and this is going to turn into something good. There is a reason for everything!
What Kenzie would tell you if you’ve just noticed your hair thinning
MeWhat would you say to a woman reading this who has just noticed her own hair thinning?
KenzieDon’t panic and don’t wait. See a dermatologist to find out why, then find a stylist who works with fine hair and will be honest about what your hair can hold, if extensions are the route you want to take.
Over here in the UK that usually starts with your GP, who can refer you on. I’ll add my own two pennies too. Nineteen to late thirties was a long gap between noticing and getting a name for it (I wouldn’t wish that gap on anyone).
Would I try extensions after all this? I don’t know yet. Toppers and wigs have been my thing for so long that I can’t quite picture it. But if you’re earlier on than me and wondering about them, I hope Kenzie’s answers help you walk into that consultation knowing what to ask.
About Kenzie Moon
Kenzie Moon is a hairstylist in Utah and the founder of Wefts + Waves, a wholesale hair extension company for licensed stylists. Diagnosed with hereditary hair loss in 2018, she now teaches her Secret Method of beaded weft extensions to stylists across the U.S.
Find her at weftsandwaves.com and on Instagram at @weftsandwaves. Wefts + Waves sells to licensed stylists only, so if you like the sound of her method, send your stylist her way.
Hair extensions and thinning hair: quick answers
Are hair extensions bad for thinning hair?
They don’t have to be. Kenzie says the damage comes from too much weight and tension on too little hair, so a good install spreads the weight along a row, keeps it off the most fragile areas and gets moved up on a regular schedule.
What type of extensions is best for fine or thinning hair?
Kenzie’s favourite is a beaded row with lightweight wefts, sized to what your own hair can carry. K-tips can also suit fine hair with expert fitting and care. She steers people away from heavy installs with more hair than they need.
How do I know if my extensions are pulling too much?
Watch for soreness at the row after the first few days, redness or bumps, more shedding than usual at the beads, or rows that slip. Any of those means a trip back to your stylist.
Thank you so much, Kenzie, for being so open about all of it.
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